Aix-en-Provence, in southern France, is a chic and sometimes underrated city. This is unfair because it has been home to some of the greatest figures in literature, art and music. The most notable inhabitant was the artist, Paul Cezanne. You can visit his studio and see an original of one of his favourite subjects, Montagne Saint-Victorie, which he painted more than 60 times. You can walk down the boulevard, Cours Mirabeau, and see the cafes and restaurants where Albert Camus and Ernest Hemingway lunched when they lived in Aix-en-Provence. There are many museums to visit, 17th and 18th-century houses to admire, and fountains to photograph. In fact, Aix-en-Provence is sometimes called the City of Fountains as there are over 30 in the city.
We have prepared a two-day itinerary for you which covers all the highlights of the city and have given you ideas of what else to see if you have more time, restaurants serving delicious food, and hotels to suit all budgets.
Where better to start your tour of Aix-en-Provence than in the studio of artist Paul Cezanne who was born in the city. He designed the studio himself and spent many hours there from 1902 until he died four years later, creating paintings such as The Bathers. The studio has been left as it was when Cezanne died so it is like you are stepping back in time and waiting for him to return to continue painting. You have to book in advance and the tickets are timed. After viewing the studio, take a stroll around the gardens where you will see a beautiful fig orchard and olive groves. There is also a video set up in the shed which tells you about the artist's life.
A 14-minute walk takes you to Pavillon Vendome, a 17th-century building housing a museum. Here you will be able to see artwork from the 17th century up to the present day, including a collection of graphic art. However, it is not only the collection that is impressive. The building is stunning with two baroque statues representing dawn and dusk framing the entrance. Inside, there is a beautiful double spiral staircase and gypsum sculptures from the 17th century. Take some time to walk around the garden which has been recreated to look like a garden from the 1800s and which has a circular fountain.
Aix Cathedral is the next stop and is about a nine-minute walk from Pavillon Vendome. It is an impressive building which blends different architectural styles all on the site of a Roman forum dating to the 1st century. It took many years to build, work starting in the 12th century and ending in the 19th. On the left side is a Gothic entrance from the 1500s with sculptures, including a beautiful Virgin Mary and child. Next to this, is a Romanesque door from the 12th century and next to this, a Roman wall. The bell tower dates to the 14th century and the naves are all different architectural styles. The stone altar was placed in the cathedral in the 1820s. There is spectacular artwork throughout the building including the Burning Bush triptych by Nicolas Froman, The Last Supper by Jean Daret, and a collection of 17 tapestries about Christ’s life.
By this time, you will probably be ready for lunch and there are plenty of restaurants in the vicinity, including the French restaurants, Chez Laurette, Restaurant L’Archeveche, and Pietro & Co, as well as an Italian restaurant, Chez Nino.
This museum is just a minute from the cathedral and is housed in what was once the archbishop’s palace. It is an enormous building with four wings surrounding a courtyard. It contains a rich collection of tapestries from the 17th and 18th centuries. Highlights include a collection called “Grotesques’, The Story of Don Quixote, and tapestries of the cartoons of Jean-Baptiste Le Prince and Charles Natoire. There is also a section on modern textile art, and another called ‘Arts au Spectacle’ where you can see costumes, models and sets from the performing arts.
Just around the corner, you will find the city’s history museum which is housed in a 17th-century mansion, the Hotel Estienne de Saint-Jean. Here you will find paintings, earthenware, period costumes, and period furniture from the city. There are also puppets from a 19th-century show and a beautiful Corpus Christi screen going back to the Ancien regime.
This bustling and beautiful square is unusual in that it has an underground car park below it. One of the city’s many fountains is in the centre of the square. It is modern, having been created in 1977, and was designed by the sculptor Amado who used homemade basaltic material. The site of the square was part of the Jewish Quarter in the Middle Ages and the buildings around it are a mix of Renaissance and mediaeval architecture. The square itself, however, wasn’t created until the 1960s when some buildings were destroyed and many of the other buildings restored. The square is popular with locals and tourists alike and there are plenty of restaurants and cafes so why not have a coffee or a drink and watch the world go by. It will make for a fitting end to your first day’s exploration of Aix-en-Provence.
Start your second day at another lovely square named after Jean Baptiste d’Alberta, president of the audit office whose family moved from Italy to Aix in the 18th century. It is a small square bordered by four identical mansions which are a beautiful expression of Baroque architecture. There is, unsurprisingly, a fountain in the centre of the square which was designed by students from the National Conservatory of Crafts and Arts in 1912, replacing another fountain which was in bad condition.
Just a minute away is Cours Mirabeau, a beautiful wide avenue filled with mansions, restaurants, cafes and shops. Take your time to take in the surroundings and perhaps have a coffee or enjoy some retail therapy. The avenue dates to the 17th century when wealthy citizens would promenade showing off their finery. Take a photograph of the fountain, Fontaine des Neuf Canons (the Fountain of the Nine Canons) which used to be a spring for sheep to drink from.
This fountain can be found at the western end of the Cours Mirabeau and is one of the most beautiful fountains in the city, so it is not to be missed. It was built in 1860 and has three statues on the top which stand for justice, agriculture, and art.
Five minutes away from the fountain is an amazing bookstore with 25,000 books in different languages, including English. It’s also a cafe so why not indulge in a slice of cake with a coffee?
Another five minute-walk takes you to this 13th-century Gothic Roman Catholic church which is one of the oldest churches in the city and the first Gothic church in Provence. It has a 67-metre bell tower which was added in the 14th century. It has stunning stained glass windows, including a rose window, but many of the paintings and other items were stolen during the French Revolution so it is bare compared to other churches in the city.
The museum is in the priory buildings of the Eglise Saint-Jean-de-Malte and is somewhere that you can spend some time as it houses nearly 12,000 pieces of artwork, including paintings and sculptures. A highlight is the room with nine paintings by Cezanne. Not to be missed are paintings by Rembrandt, Reubens, Jordaens, Picasso and Kandinsky. A donation from the Plaque Foundation has enabled the museum to showcase more paintings by famous artists.
It will have been a long morning, so it is time for a leisurely lunch to recharge your batteries. There are eateries close to the church including La Maison Francaise and La Brocherie which serve grilled meats and seafood.
You will have had a busy morning so just a couple of stops in the afternoon. The first is this square which is four minutes from the church and is a mix of architectural styles. There are mansions, but many are now shops and cafes. In the centre of the square is the Fontaine des Quatre-Dauphins, the Fountain of the Four Dolphins, which is well worth taking a photograph of. It was sculpted in 1667 by Jean-Claude Rambot, but the metal embellishments were added in the 1910s. The four dolphins spout water into the central basin and represent the four districts of the city. Take some time to wander around the narrow cobblestoned streets surrounding the square and discover unique shops selling lacework, artwork, ceramics, and other handmade items.
End your exploration of Aix-en-Provence in Parc Jordan, one of the largest parks in the city. It covers 40,000 square metres and is on two levels. Enter the lower level through a spectacular gate that leads to a path with linden trees and a water feature. Reach the upper level by a double staircase and enjoy the lawns and the romantic garden. Younger children will enjoy the park as there is a playground. If you are there in the summer, you might catch an outdoor performance of a play, music, or dance.
Aix-en-Provence offers a wide range of restaurants to suit different palates. There are Michelin-star restaurants for special occasions, cosy bistros offering traditional French cuisine, and even foreign restaurants for when you want a change.
The best times to visit Aix-en-Provence are between March and May and September and November. The weather is pleasant at these times of year but not too hot and without crowds. If you like hot weather, head to the city in the summer months but be warned that it will be crowded with both Parisians and foreigners. Prices of accommodation also rise in the summer. The cheapest time to visit is in the winter but the weather is unpredictable, and some hotels and attractions will be shut.