With some of the UK’s best rural scenery, the remote and rugged Northern Highlands has fast become a must-see for visitors to Scotland. Our five-day itinerary incorporates the area’s most famous route, the North Coast 500 (or NC500 for short) as it winds its way along the coastline taking in serene sandy beaches, dilapidated stone ruins, glistening lochs and picturesque villages. This is a place for a road trip, and an epic one at that, so be sure to check out our suggestions for places to stay and eat during your journey as well as options for extending your trip.
Your exploration of the Northern Highlands begins on Scotland’s east coast, hugging the coastline up to mainland Britain’s most northerly point, before returning along the west coast towards the Isle of Skye. Your first stop is the charming town of Dornoch. Thanks to its sheltered position, this town often gets dry and sunny weather, which you can make the most of on a stroll along Dornoch Beach. There’s also an impressive cathedral and a top-notch golf course to enjoy. Don’t miss the Historylinks Museum, where you can learn about the Witch’s Stone and pick up a guidebook for the town walk.
Further along the sandy coastline north of Dornoch, you’d find the Loch Fleet National Nature Reserve. This tidal basin and the surrounding dunes, saltmarsh and woodland are home to a variety of wildlife including ospreys, seals and otters. Follow the woodland trail through ancient Scots pine forest and enjoy beautiful views over the loch from the bird hides.
Cyclists of all levels can enjoy the rugged terrain of Ben Bhraggie in Golspie on the Highland Wildcat Trails. Trails range from family-friendly blue and green tracks to more adventurous and challenging red and black tracks. Whichever track you choose, you’ll be sure to enjoy the stunning mountain scenery. If you need to hire a bike, there are rental options in nearby Golspie and Dornoch.
Designed in the style of a French chateau and boasting 189 rooms, Dunrobin Castle is the largest of the great houses in the Northern Highlands and has been continuously inhabited by the Earls and Dukes of Sutherland since the 14th century. The setting of the castle is very much part of its appeal on the shores of the Moray Firth with carefully tended formal gardens, from where you can enjoy dramatic views back up to the castle.
In 1869, Baile an Or was the location of the Great Sutherland Gold Rush after local man Robert Gilchrist discovered gold in the Suisgill and Kildonan burns. Visitors can search for their own small piece of precious metal in designated areas of Kildonan Burn on the Suisgill Estate, subject to abiding by the estate’s rules. Be sure to get your permit for gold panning from one of the various Helmsdale establishments before making your way to the site.
Whaligoe Haven was once a bustling harbour where fishing boats would bring in their catch of herring, salmon and shellfish. Local fisherwomen would then carry baskets brimming with fresh fish up the 365 flagstone steps cut into the cliff face so they could be taken to Wick to be sold. Although the harbour is no longer operational, you can still visit the Whaligoe Steps and discover the seafaring history of this area.
A short drive from the Whaligoe Steps, you’ll find the small town of Wick, home to castle ruins, a heritage centre and whiskey distillery, as well as your base for the night. You can learn more about the area’s heritage including its time as Europe’s largest herring port at the Wick Heritage Museum. There are also walks along the Wick River or along the coast to the ‘Old Man of Wick’ castle. Don’t miss Ebenezer Place, a tiny street measuring just over two metres in length, thought to be the world’s shortest street.
The first stop on your visit today is Duncansby Head, the most northeasterly point of mainland Britain. Park up at the lighthouse, which dates back to 1924 and enjoy the views over to Orkney and the North Sea before making your way round the headland along the coastal path. Look out for seals, whales and dolphins in the water below, especially during the summer.
Continue south along the cliffs taking in the dramatic coastal scenery until you reach Thirle Door and the Stacks of Duncansby. These intriguing sandstone rock formations are an iconic feature of this section of coastline with the Great Stack standing at over 60 metres tall, higher than the clifftop you’ll be viewing it from.
The small village of John O'Groats is well known as the northern point of the ‘End to End’ journey which finishes (or starts) at Lands End in Cornwall. Stop for a photo at the famous John O’Groats signpost, pay a visit to the tourist information centre, or take a tour of the John O’Groats Brewery. There’s also a modest selection of gift shops and cafes where you can grab a coffee or fish and chips, while you admire the scenery and the colourful self-catering apartments, which make up the Inn at John O’Groats.
Continue your journey to the extremes of mainland Britain with a stop at Dunnet Head, the most northerly point of mainland Scotland. The area is an RSPB reserve, where depending on the season, you might spot puffins, razorbills and guillemots nestled in the cliffs. From the 19th century lighthouse, you can walk over to the clifftop viewpoint, where there are views across the sea to the Orkney Islands.
Take a break from dramatic coastal vistas to enjoy a relaxing stroll around Thurso, mainland Scotland’s most northerly town. Here you can enjoy charming shops and cafes, Thurso Beach and a harbourside viewpoint. It’s a popular spot for surfing, hosting numerous cold water surfing championships throughout the year. For those looking to stay on dry land, be sure to visit the numerous ruins in the area including Thurso Castle, the castle gatehouse, and Old St Peter’s Kirk. The North Coast Visitor Centre is a great opportunity to learn about the area’s history, while at nearby Wolfburn Distillery there’s the chance to sample a dram of locally produced whisky.
In an old parish church in Bettyhill, you’ll find the unassuming Strathnaver Museum. Through its collections, it tells the region’s story with a particular focus on the Highland Clearances which happened in the 19th century. You can also learn about Clan Mackay and numerous Highland traditions.
The Northern Highlands is renowned for its untouched, tranquil beaches with stunning coastal views and this is just what you’ll find at Coldbackie Beach. Long stretches of white sand lead to clear blue waters and sea views over to the Orkney Islands. Relax as you listen to the sound of the ocean and watch surfers and swimmers embrace the cold bracing water. Do wear suitable footwear as the path down to the beach can be slippery, particularly in wet conditions.
As you make your way from Coldbackie to Durness, you’ll pass one of Scotland’s numerous sea lochs, Loch Eriboll. The road hugs the shore of this shimmering sixteen-kilometre-long expanse, making it an impressively scenic drive. En route, look out for the 19th century lime kilns of Ard Neackie and the views over the mountains.
One of Durness’s most popular attractions is the unique Smoo Cave, which is unusual in being both a sea cave and a freshwater cave. Once inside, visitors can admire the intriguing limestone rock formations as well as tumbling waterfalls. There is public access to the first part of the cave, while to explore its depths you’ll need to book onto a boat tour. Do note that boat trips are weather dependent.
Mainland Scotland’s most north westerly village is a good spot to restock road trip supplies and enjoy the rugged Highland scenery. With a shop, a campsite and stunning coastal views, the village is popular with walkers and golfers alike thanks to the numerous walking trails, sandy beaches and nearby Durness Golf Club.
Beaches in this part of Scotland are reminiscent of the Caribbean with pristine white sand and sparkling turquoise waters, albeit a colder climate. There are numerous bays and beaches to choose from on the northwest coast and Durness Beach is in easy reach of the village. Take a stroll along the sand or sit and enjoy the tranquillity of this remote spot. Balnakeil Beach is also a popular option.
Having been to the most northerly and north easterly points of mainland Britain, it’s now time to visit the most north westerly point with a trip to Cape Wrath. This rugged cape with its towering sandstone and gneiss cliffs faces directly onto the Atlantic Ocean with views to Orkney and the Western Isles. To access Cape Wrath, unless you’re a keen hiker, you’ll need to take a passenger ferry, which crosses the Kyle of Durness, followed by a minibus tour. Look out for the large seabird population, which includes puffins, razorbills and guillemots.
Pop into Balnakeil Craft Village, just outside Durness and discover local artisan crafts, from glassworks, to paintings to chocolates. This is a great spot to buy locally produced souvenirs such as ceramics or jewellery and enjoy a steaming cup of indulgent hot chocolate from specialist chocolate shop Cocoa Mountain on a brisk Scottish day.
Get started early for a walk out to the idyllic beach at Sandwood Bay. This remote stretch of golden sand is more than a mile long and is accessed via a four-mile route from the village of Blairmore. As you cross grassy plains and walk beside glimmering lochs, you’ll be surrounded by astounding Highland scenery before reaching your goal, the serene sands of Sandwood Bay. If you’re short on time, there are a number of other beautiful beaches you could visit such as Oldshoremore Beach or Polin Beach.
Accessed by a small ferry from Tarbet, Handa Island is a wildlife reserve with numerous seabird colonies and exceptional views. On reaching the island, you’ll be greeted by a member of the Scottish Wildlife Trust and introduced to this birdwatching haven. As you explore the island on one of the designated paths, you might see guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and great skuas. From the island’s impressive towering cliffs, take in the views of Cape Wrath and Scotland’s north-west coast. You might even be able to spot marine life such as dolphins and basking sharks during your visit.
From Handa Island, continue your journey along the spectacular western coast until you reach Loch Assynt. This breathtaking freshwater loch is a popular fishing spot, and legend dictates that it’s also the home to the mermaid of Assynt. Marvel at the glimmering water and its rugged surroundings as you drive along the loch’s northern shore before continuing to Lochinver.
On the shores of Loch Inver, the bustling village of Lochinver feels like a change of pace from the remote wilderness of the surrounding countryside. There’s the opportunity to stock up at the local supermarket or stop for a coffee at one of the cafes. Particularly of note are Lochinver Larder’s pies, perfect to take with you for your picnic at Achmelvich Bay.
Popular in the summer for water sports, Achmelvich Bay boasts a white sand beach, crystal clear waters and breathtaking scenery and is a great spot to enjoy a picnic. For wildlife enthusiasts, there’s the possibility of seeing black and red throated divers as well as porpoises and dolphins, while for hikers there are numerous trails in the vicinity. Do note that this spot can get busy during the peak season.
As you make your way to Ullapool, passing through dramatic mountainous landscapes, and resilient grasslands, be sure to make a stop at Ardvreck Castle on the shores of Loch Assynt. While this ruined 15th century building may be fairly petite compared to many of Scotland’s imposing castles, it commands impressive views of the surrounding countryside and information boards in the parking area reveal some of the notable events in the castle’s history. Continue your drive through the beautiful untamed wilderness until you reach Ullapool.
Famed for its live music and picturesque setting on the shores of Loch Broom, Ullapool is one of the largest settlements in the area with a good selection of shops and restaurants. There are onward ferry connections to Stornoway and lots of walking routes within easy access. Take an evening stroll along the harbour, admiring the bobbing fishing boats and pretty cottages before heading to the nearby beach for a spot of birdwatching.
Taking the winding coastal route from Ullapool, make your way to charming Inverewe Garden and Estate. Set on Loch Ewe, a pristine sea loch, and cared for by the National Trust for Scotland, this heritage garden boasts an impressive variety of plants and trees from California redwoods to Tasmanian eucalyptus. Make sure to also stop by Inverewe House, an intriguing interactive museum where you can learn about the garden and its creators. There’s also a visitor centre, a café and an art gallery.
There are numerous picturesque sea lochs in the Northern Highlands but there are two aspects that make Loch Ewe particularly unique. First is that it’s the only north-facing loch in Scotland and second is its role as a convoy collecting point in World War Two. Stop in at the Arctic Convoy Museum to learn about how the ships involved in the Arctic Convoys gathered at Loch Ewe before making their way to Murmansk. You can also see remnants of the loch’s military role as you make your way around the edge of the loch. Before continuing with your journey, be sure to take a stroll along Firemore Beach and enjoy views over to the Isle of Ewe.
The pretty village of Torridon sits at the foot of towering mountains and on the shore of sparkling Upper Loch Torridon. This is an area rich in wildlife, exceptional scenery and a variety of hiking trails. While time might not afford the chance to climb a Munro, you can certainly enjoy the dramatic landscape as you drive through Glen Torridon and south to Bealach Na Bà.
One of the most famous roads on the NC500 is the mountainous route from Tornapress to Applecross, Bealach Na Bà. This narrow, winding path zigzags its way through dramatic scenery, with hairpin bends and views over to the Isle of Skye. This is not a route for the faint hearted or wide vehicles, although it is a popular challenging route for cyclists.
Having mastered the Bealach Na Bà route, spend some time taking in the glorious scenery in Applecross, a peninsula wedged between Loch Kishorn, Loch Torridon and Glen Shieldaig. This isolated spot boasts beautiful views over to the Isles of Skye and Raasay. Enjoy the warm hospitality of the Applecross Inn before making your way back to Tornapress.
Finish your day at one of Scotland’s most iconic sights, Eilean Donan castle. First built in the 13th century, this charming castle sits on its own tiny island amidst spectacular scenery. You might want to explore the castle with its family-friendly exhibits and intriguing collection of artefacts or alternatively you could discover the viewpoints in the surrounding area, perfect for capturing a photo of this famous Scottish scene.
There is a great selection of golf courses dotted along the Northern Highlands coastline, with each boasting the varied and impressive scenery that is synonymous with the region. On the eastern coast, you’ll find the oldest course on the NC500 route at Wick Golf Club, as well as Helmsdale Golf Club and Lybster Golf Club. Meanwhile to the north, each club has a distinct northerly accolade. There’s Thurso Golf Club, boasting the most northerly course in mainland Britain, Reay Golf Club, with mainland Britain’s most northerly 18-hole links course, and Durness Golf Club, the most north westerly course in mainland Britain. You’ll also find a cluster of clubs south of Helmsdale including Brora Golf Club, Golspie Golf Club and Royal Dornoch Golf Club.
With pristine beaches, an array of wildlife, rushing waterfalls and dramatic scenery, the Northern Highlands is popular with adventurous families, looking to spend quality time in the great outdoors. Staying at campsites is a popular way to explore the area with the added benefit that some of the campsites offer additional facilities such as a playpark. The region’s beautiful beaches are usually a big hit with children, with plenty of space to let off steam, fly kites and enjoy a picnic. The crystal-clear waters are also great for water sports including surfing, kayaking and paddleboarding, although temperatures can be fairly cool so it’s worth packing wetsuits if you plan to spend time in the sea.
For an extra thrill, be sure to stop at the Golden Eagle Zip Line near Ceannabeinne Beach, where, weather permitting, you can zoom along the UK’s most northerly zipline. Another Durness attraction that’s great for families is Smoo Cave. Part of the cave is accessible for free, or you can book onto a boat trip to discover the enchanting interior. Before you leave Durness, be sure to stop for a hot chocolate at Cocoa Mountain. Designated indoor play activities are somewhat few and far between owing to the remoteness of the area, however Messy Nessy Play & Ceramic Café in Thurso is a great option for indoor fun for all ages.
There are also indoor activities at Lochbroom Leisure Centre in Ullapool and the Hub near Ardgay. If you’ve got a family who like wildlife, the Northern Highlands is home to a variety of bird and marine life, including dolphins and puffins. Much of the enjoyment of travelling through the Northern Highlands comes from the chance to explore and discover, whether that’s crumbling castle ruins or crossing the suspension bridge over Corrieshalloch Gorge.
The NC500 route has become increasingly popular in recent years and as a result the summer months, when the weather is warmest and there is the most daylight, can get quite crowded, especially as many roads are single track lanes and there are limited accommodation and eating options. As a result, the best time to visit the Northern Highlands is the shoulder seasons of April, May and September. Most attractions are still open at this time but there are fewer crowds, meaning you can enjoy the remote nature of this magical region to the fullest. If you prefer to travel in peak season, be sure to book well accommodation well in advance for the best prices and availability. Autumn and winter can still be an enjoyable time to visit with opportunities to warm up by a crackling fire and enjoy secluded viewpoints all to yourself, however be prepared for colder temperatures and soggy weather.
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