Do you love getting a bit off the beaten path, uncovering ancient history, and eating your way through gourmet food destinations? Skip Paris and head for the Dordogne, one of the most beautiful regions in France. Steeped in Medieval history and sprinkled with castles that are seemingly perched around every corner, the Dordogne is a magical department in the southwest of France.
Follow the languid Dordogne River on this six-day road trip through the heart of the sleepy Perigord countryside. Start in Perigueux, the largest city in the region, and end in Medieval Bergerac, checking off sacred shrines and ancient ruins along the way. You’ll hop between charming hamlets, each with their own claim to as the “most beautiful village in France”, and eat your way through local markets. Dordogne is truffle country, after all! Dripping with archaeological sites, including the best examples of prehistoric cave paintings in the world at both Lascaux and Font-de-Gaume, history buffs will be drooling over the countless Roman, Medieval, and Paleolithic wonders.
Have we convinced you yet? Come with us on a week-long trip through the Dordogne!
The largest city in the Dordogne region, Perigueux is a city steeped in history that dates back thousands of years to its start as the Roman city of Vesunna. Perched on the Isle River, stroll through its terracotta roofed buildings and cobbled historic center with the iconic bell tower and domes hovering in the sky.
Begin your morning in the heart of Perigueux with your first glimpse of Dordogne’s fascinating history.
The first museum in Dordogne, the Musee d’Art Archaeologie du Perigord, was opened in 1835 and pays homage to the region's rich history. Their permanent exhibition holds over 33,000 artifacts and artworks, including fascinating pieces like the Regourdou man, a Neanderthal who lived in 90,000 BC near Lascaux, and over 2,000 objects that were brought back from French travelers and merchants who lived in Perigord and sailed to far off countries.
The UNESCO crown jewel of Perigueux, Saint-Front Cathedral was built in the 12th century. Characterized by its unique architectural features, including the famous five domes, if the Neo-Byzantine architecture seems familiar, that’s because the famous Sacre-Coeur in Paris was modeled after Saint-Front. Step inside to find beautiful frescoes, a grand organ, and the same chandelier that hung in Paris’ Notre Dame at Napoleon and Eugenie’s wedding. Many pilgrims stop here on their way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
Opened in 1912, the Musee Militaire de Perigord pays tribute to France’s soldiers through artifacts collected during campaigns and conquests, including the Crimean and Algerian War. Explore over 1200 artifacts that have been collected over hundreds of years like uniforms, weapons, and even artwork.
Round out the morning at the edge of Perigueux’s historic center at the Mataguerre Tower. The town of Perigueux was protected by ramparts and towers in the 13th century, this being the last of the 28 original towers. Admire its arrow slits and other defense features, all used to protect the city for centuries.
The Church of Saint-Etienne's-de-la-Cite was Perigueux’s main cathedral for hundreds of years before being attacked by protestants in the 16th century. Although it once fell into disrepair, the church was restored and can be toured today.
Perigueux’s history dates back to Roman times, and the Square des Arenes is one of the best examples of their ancient influence on the city. Step inside this circular park to reveal a 1st-century amphitheater that could hold up to 20,000 people at a time and beautiful, established trees.
Keep walking south to Perigueux’s Château de Barriere, a Medieval castle that was once the home to the Barriere family. Built in the 13th century, the castle lies in partial ruins but can still be visited today on a guided tour that highlights artifacts found nearby.
Continue discovering Perigueux’s Roman history at the VESUNNA Museum. The Roman city of Vesunna once stood where modern Perigueux stands today, a part of the ever-growing Roman Empire and Julius’ Caesar's conquest of Gaul. Explore the city’s magnificently planned roads, domes, and the amphitheater in miniature, as well as Roman artifacts that have been found during excavations throughout Perigueux. The museum itself is a beautiful, open-air concept designed by the architect Jean Nouvel.
Your last stop of the day is the Vesone Tower, otherwise known as the Tour de Vesone. Once part of a Gallo-Roman temple, the tower was constructed in the 2nd century. Although the remnants you see today only reach 82’ in the air, they once towered almost 300’ above the city.
The unassuming village of Montignac-Lascaux was little more than a sleepy hamlet until a group of teenagers discovered one of the world’s best examples of Paleolithic cave paintings in 1940. Originally created about 17,000 years ago, these paintings depict horses, ibex, mammoths, lions, bears, wolves, and more animals that would’ve been found in France during the Paleolithic period. Although the original cave was closed due to deterioration of the art, visitors travel from across the globe to visit the recreation, Lascaux II. Make the drive this morning to Montignac-Lascaux, about 50 minutes from downtown Perigueux.
While you won’t get to go inside the original Lascaux caves (which were closed in 1963), Lascaux II provides the next best thing. A historical reproduction, Lascaux II allows visitors inside the cave system, only about 330 feet from the original site. The two main caverns, where about 90% of the paintings were created, are what you can explore at Lascaux II—the Room of the Bulls and the Axial Diverticulum. Be sure to book the Aux Origins experience, where a local guide will explain the cave's history and take you through Lascaux II by candlelight, much as the prehistoric peoples who created these cave drawings did thousands of years ago.
Learn more about this Paleolithic masterpiece at Lascaux IV, also known as the International Center for Cave Art. Located just a few minute's drive from Lascaux II, this experience offers a perfect replica reproduction of the caves, created using 3D laser scanning technology, and a more interactive experience. You can also head up to the roof for panoramic views of the area. The building itself is a stunning work of modern architecture designed by Snøhetta and SRA architects.
Continue exploring Dordogne's famous prehistoric cave paintings this afternoon at an equally magnificent site, Font de Gaume. It takes just 30 minutes to drive here from Lascaux.
While you can’t go inside Lascaux, you can go inside the Grotte de Font de Gaume! Some of the first cave paintings discovered in the region, these paintings date to around the same time as Lascaux, about 17,000 years ago. Head into this subterranean art museum to see 200 vibrant paintings of bison, reindeer, mammoths, and more. Be sure to book tickets at least a week in advance for this rare experience. If you’re still eager to find more cave paintings, the nearby Combarelles Caves and Cap-Blanc Shelter are within a 10-minute drive.
The most comprehensive collection of prehistoric artifacts in all of France, the Musee National de Prehistoire is the perfect spot to continue learning about the people who created the paintings at both Lascaux and Font de Gaume. You’ll have the chance to see Stone Age tools, Paleolithic art, weapons, and more. This museum is located in the heart of Les Eyzies.
A stunning, modern museum tucked along the Beaune River in Les Eyzies, the Prehistory Interpretation Center unravels why this region of France and its landscapes were perfect for cave paintings. End your day of discovering Dordogne’s Paleolithic history by spending the night in the town of Les Eyzies, where the Grotte de Font de Gaume is.
With medieval masterpieces, picture-perfect squares, and a beautiful mix of half-timbered and honey-colored limestone facades, Sarlat-la-Caneda is straight out of a fairytale. Make the 30-minute drive from Les Eyzies to Sarlat this morning (hopefully) in time to attend the Sarlat Market.
Gourmands can’t miss the chance to stroll the Sarlat Market. Open on Wednesdays and Saturdays, this is one of the best markets in all of France. Held in the shadow of the Cathedral of Saint Sacerdos, you’ll find Perigord products like honey, fresh produce from local farmers, and fresh baked bread, just to name a few. This is also a great spot to stock up on picnic supplies.
You might notice conical towers peeking out from their precipice on a hill in Sarlat’s center. These are the Lanternes des Morts, 12th-century towers that are common in this region of France and are thought to have been a sign that a cemetery was nearby. It’s thought that this particular tower was built for a variety of reasons, including the visit of a Knight of the Templar or a founder of the Cistercian order.
The Jardin des Enfeus surrounds the Lanternes des Morts. Known as the Garden of Fires in English, funerary rituals once took place here.
It took over three centuries for the Cathedral of Saint Sacerdos to be completed, but it was worth the wait. This charming cathedral in the center of Sarlat was finally finished in 1685. Walk inside to reveal its simple yet elegant nave, stained glass windows, and imposing organ.
Just a few minutes walk from the cathedral stands the home of a distinguished Sarlat citizen, Etienne Boetie. A poet, diplomat, and judge, visitors can admire his 16th century home and its delicate Italian-Renaissance architecture.
Wrap up your morning stroll through Sarlat at the Abbaye Saint-Claire, a former convent turned modern residences and another architectural delight.
Another stunning example of Sarlat’s architecture with a beautiful lauze roof and limestone facade, Manoir de Gisson is a 15-room manor house built in the 13th-century. Visitors can go inside this sumptuous home that once belonged to the Gisson family, a part of Sarlat nobility. Visit the lavishly decorated and designed consul’s apartments, vaulted cellars, and the whimsical Cabinet of Curiosities.
Quickly stop by the Fontaine Sainte-Marie, a holy water fountain, before continuing on to Old Saint Mary’s Church Covered Market.
Housed inside the 12th-century Saint Mary’s church, this unique market is the perfect spot to continue searching for local products like olive oil, wine, and dried fruit.
Often thought of as one of the most beautiful villages in France, you can’t visit the Dordogne Valley without stopping in sacred Rocamadour. This mystical, hilltop Medieval city was built inside the Alzou Canyon in three distinct layers. Somewhat similar to Lourdes, miracles are said to have happened at Rocamadour, but you’ll have to visit to find out for yourself. It’s a one-hour drive from Sarlat to Rocamadour.
Originally built to protect the Rocamadour sanctuary below, the Chateau de Rocamadour is a 14th century, Medieval castle. While you can’t go inside the fortress itself, visitors can explore the ramparts, overlooking the city and Alzou Canyon far below. There is a large parking lot outside the Château de Rocamadour, making it a good first stop on your tour of the city. After walking around the castle and seeking out the ramparts, descend into the Medieval city by way of the Great Staircases with its legendary 216 steps—or one of the lifts.
Nicknamed “Medieval Lourdes”, Rocamadour wouldn’t be a religious pilgrimage site without the Sanctuaire Notre-Dame de Rocamadour. The perfectly preserved body of Saint Amadour was found in the year 1166, buried at the rocky precipice where the sanctuary stands today. Go inside the sanctuary, a UNESCO World Heritage Site carved right into the rock wall, to witness the Black Virgin. It’s said that Our Lady of Rocamadour was particularly holy to sailors and prisoners who she freed and watched over.
Built in the 13th century, the Basilique Saint-Sauveur was the church where pilgrims went to worship on arrival in Rocamadour. This place of worship is particularly poignant as its crypts are said to have once housed the remains of Saint Amadour. Also built into the rock, the wooden mezzanines and organ are particularly beautiful.
Make the short drive out to the edge of Rocamadour next to visit the Grotte Prehistorique des Merveilles. These prehistoric caves are decorated with negative hands, a style of art that was achieved by blowing dye over a hand placed on the wall. You’ll also see paintings of deer and horses as well as stalactites. The cave is only open from April to October.
Make your way to your first of three bastide towns this morning, dotting the Dordogne River. You’ll drive about an hour west to the charming village of Domme from Rocamadour. Perched on a hilltop above the river, Domme offers some of the most dramatic scenery and panoramic vistas in the region. A crucial stronghold during the Hundred Years War, Domme is also steeped in Medieval history.
Start exploring Domme by strolling its cobbled lanes and beneath its many stone arches.
Two of Domme’s beautifully preserved fortified, stone archways, La Porte de la Combe and La Porte del Bos help to tell the history of this Medieval town. Completed in 1310, these very fortifications helped protect the city during the Hundred Years War. Although it did eventually fall to the English, the town remained intact.
Two towers stand at the Medieval entrance to Domme. The Knights Templar were once taken prisoner in these very walls by King Philip IV. Look closely to see the graffiti they left behind, an emblem of the Holy Grail. Visitors can see the graffiti independently during the summer or join a guided tour at the Visitor’s Center which is highly recommended!
Head into subterranean Domme on a tour of the caves that lie beneath the city. The Grotte de Domme is a fun adventure, exploring the striking cascades of stalactites and stalagmites that hang from the ceiling and grow from the floor. You’ll walk through almost 1,500 feet of trails that wind through these glittering caverns.
Continue to the edge of town to see the Buste de Jacques de Melville, a famous Domme resident who helped create France’s Civil Code.
End your foray through Medieval Domme at the Vue Panoramique, the best place in town to soak up the views from Domme’s dramatic precipice.
Continue driving just 10 minutes to La Roque Gageac before finishing the day in Beynac-et-Cazenac, another 10 minutes to Beynac-et-Cazenac.
Tucked beneath a limestone cliff overhang, La Roque Gageac is another quintessential village along the Dordogne River.
Your first stop in La Roque Gageac is an unusual one, a thick bamboo forest at the edge of the Dordogne River. This five-hectare bamboo grove was first planted at the turn of the century when resident Gabriel Tarde brought bamboo plants back from the World’s Fair in Paris. Other exotic plants, including different varieties of bamboo species, have been planted in these gardens since. Visitors can also pop into the restaurant and bar onsite. The bamboo grove is only open from April to early October.
Head towards the Dordogne River to Roque-Gageac’s river viewpoint for picture-perfect views of the village.
Climb up, 130 feet, above the village to the Fort de la Roque-Gageac. This troglodyte fortress was built in the Middle Ages and, despite being carved into the rock, retains Medieval ramifications like a moat, parapets, and gunports. Explore the exhibition which details the history of the fort, historical figures, and a natural cave.
Situated on the far western edge of La Roque-Gageac, Les Jardins de Marqueyssac are the stunning gardens that surround the chateau of the same name. The most visited gardens in Southwestern France, this National Historic Monument was created in the 1800s. Explore three miles of pathways that lead through perfectly manicured boxwoods to reveal stunning panoramic vistas, waterfalls, and secret cottages. If you happen to be visiting in summer, don’t miss their candlelight evenings when thousands of twinkling candles are scattered through the gardens, and live music is in full swing.
Visitors to the gardens can also stop by the small chateau, built in the 17th century by Bertrand Vernet de Marqueyssac. While you can’t go inside, you can admire its romantic architecture while also discovering the gardens.
Make your way to the final bastide village of the trip, Beynac-et-Cazenac. Famous for its 12th-century castle, discover this Medieval town perched on a 200-foot cliff.
Perched atop a limestone cliff overlooking the village of Beynac-et-Cazenac and the Dordogne River, Chateau de Beynac is one of the most formidable castles in the region. Built in the 12th century, famous figures once slept in its halls, including King Richard the Lionheart, members of the Crusades, and Simon de Montfort. Visitors can tour the primitive keep, stateroom, guard room, oratory, 17th-century salons, kitchens, and barbicans, connected by striking Renaissance staircases and all remarkably preserved. Terraces also offer unprecedented views of the Dordogne River.
Finish your grand tour of the Dordogne in one of the region’s largest cities, Bergerac. Hugging the Dordogne River, this little Medieval town has been inhabited for thousands of years. A popular trade port since the Hundred Years War, the city has seen its fair share of tumult and has the history to show for it. Make the one hour drive to Bergerac from the bastide villages this morning to discover this city, surrounded by vineyards.
A bit of a change from the Medieval churches you’ve been exploring so far, Notre-Dame de Bergerac was built in the 19th century. Admire its Neo-Gothic architecture, including the staggering 260 foot tower, designed by architect Paul Abadie who also designed the Sacre Coeur. Step inside to see the soaring nave and the stained glass windows that line it.
Make a pit stop at Halle de Bergerac, the city’s covered market, to find local produce, charcuterie, cheese, and more. Originally built in 1887, the hall was restored in 2021.
Tobacco and France have an inextricable bond tied to both culture and heritage. Explore this unique codependency at the Musee du Tabac through smoking paraphernalia, an intriguing film, and artifacts from across the globe, all housed inside the Maison Peyrarede, a 17th-century manor house.
While most of France was devoutly Catholic, Bergerac was an outlier and remained majority protestant during the Wars of Religion. The Protestant Temple of Bergerac is a vestige of this time in history. Visits are only allowed at very specific times of day as Protestant churches aren’t open to the public like Catholic cathedrals.
Make a brief stop at the Statue of Cyrano de Bergerac, a character immortalized in Edmond Rostand's play by the same name.
Continue exploring Bergerac by strolling through the leafy Place de la Mirpe, fringed with half-timbered buildings, before continuing on to visit the Dordonha.
Finish your tour of Bergerac at the Dordonha Museum, dedicated to the sculptor Constantin Papachristopoulos. Famous for breaking away from Rodin’s style, admire 60 of his sculptures, many of female figures and busts. This museum is also known as Musee Costi.
End your epic trip through Dordogne by toasting with a glass of local, Bergerac wine. Quai Cyrano is a community gathering space where retailers from around Purple Perigord (the region where Bergerac is) show off their delicious products. Visitors can order a glass from the wine bar, which has over 140 different bottles from the region, and sip in either the 17th century Cloître des Recollets or on the terrace that overlooks the Dordogne River.
The Dordogne is graced with four distinct seasons, hot summers and fairly mild yet chilly winters. But what is the best time to visit the Dordogne region? Fall and spring are two of the most ideal times of year to make a trip to southwestern France. Summer tends to linger well into October if you’re looking for warm days without the crowds and May is a gorgeous time of year when the rains have usually subsided and flowers are blooming all throughout the countryside.
If you do happen to be visiting in summer, you’ll find cool respite in the region's many caves and castles. Alternatively, keep in mind that many restaurants, hotels, and attractions close in winter, making it much more difficult to plan a trip! Although, winter is the best time of year for truffle hunting.
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