A mere 38 kilometres exist between Avignon and Arles, but they couldn’t be further apart. Arles is steeped in ancient Roman history, while Avignon is filled with Gothic and Renaissance buildings. Avignon was the seat of the Catholic Church in the 14th century making it one of the most important cities in Europe. This is displayed in the magnificent Palais des Papes, home of the popes and the largest Gothic building in the world. These differences make visiting them in one trip ideal as you will have no chance of being bored. You will be awed by both the well-preserved ancient buildings in Arles and by the treasures housed in the many museums and art galleries in Avignon.
We have prepared a three-day itinerary to Avignon and Arles which covers all the major highlights. In case you have more time, we have suggested other places to visit in each town and close by, as well as where to eat and stay.
Start your tour at this bridge which is also known as Pont d’Avignon. It dates to the 12th century and originally linked France to the Papal territory. Unfortunately, a massive flood destroyed a large part of the bridge in the 17th century, and it hasn’t been rebuilt. Of the original 22 arches, just four remain but what is there, is beautiful and gives an impression of what it was like when Avignon was the centre of Europe. When you arrive at the bridge, you are given an audio guide and you can then visit the gatehouse which defended the crossing, the Tour Philippe-le-Bel, and the Chapel of Saint Nicholas which is above the second arch. You may have heard the famous French song, ‘Sur le Pont d’Avignon’ which is about a dance underneath the bridge, written in the 15th century and still popular today.
A minute’s walk away, on your walk towards the Palais des Papes, you will come across a smaller palace, the Petit Palais, a beautiful building constructed in the Renaissance style. Pope Julius II had the palace renovated in the early part of the 16th century and it hasn’t changed since then. It is now an art museum housing mediaeval art including 327 paintings and 600 sculptures created by both French and Italian artists from the Gothic and Renaissance periods. Nearly all of these were created for Avignon churches during the 14th century and a highlight is Botticelli’s Virgin and Child.
A five-minute walk takes you to the cathedral which is next to the Palais des Papes. It was built in the 12th century and is well worth visiting. You will see beautiful artwork and sculptures inside, including a stunning 14th-century statue of the Virgin Mary. There is an intricately designed Baroque high altar and a 47-metre-high tower which you can climb for a spectacular view of the city. Currently, you don’t have to pay to get in.
When you have explored the cathedral, head next door to the Palace of the Popes. This enormous palace is a spectacular Gothic building and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There is an audio guide to listen to while you are touring the palace as well as histopads to use. There are 24 rooms which are open to visitors, and these are decorated as they would have been when the popes lived there. The walls are decorated with 700-year-old frescoes, painted by the gothic artist, Matteo Giovanetti. You can climb to the top of the palace and walk around a turret. The views are magnificent.
A four-minute walk takes you to Avignon’s main square, Place de l'Horloge, which houses the town hall and the opera house. Go behind the city hall buildings to see the clock tower which the square is named after. The square is the perfect place to have lunch as in the summer, half the square is taken up with restaurant tables so you can eat al fresco. The square is also one of the hosts of the events during the Festival d’Avignon and in December, the Christmas market is held here.
After a busy morning and a long leisurely lunch, there are just a couple of stops in the afternoon, but both need some time to appreciate them. The first is the Palais Du Roure, two minutes away from the Place de l’Horloge. This palace belonged to the Baroncelli family until 1918 when the author Jeanne de Flandreyse bought it. She left the 15th-century palace to the city in her will and now it is a museum portraying Provencal history, language, literature, and traditions. A highlight is the large collection of bells belonging to Jeanne. The museum is free, and guided tours are on offer.
A three-minute walk takes you to the Basilique Saint-Pierre D’Avignon, a Gothic building which was built in the 14th century on the site of a 7th-century church which the Moors possibly destroyed. Before you go in, take some time to admire the ornate doors. They were sculpted later than the structure of the church. Antoine Volard, a renowned sculptor, created them out of walnut in 1551 and they are spectacular. Spend some time inside where you will see a mixture of styles. Renaissance and Baroque paintings adorn the walls and there is a gilded choir from the 18th century. The 15th-century relics of Saint Pierre are kept here as well as his robes and cardinal’s hat.
Your second day is filled with museums and art galleries, all within walking distance of each other and housing many treasures. Start your exploration at the Musee Louis Vouland housed in the former home of businessman Louis Vouland. The museum showcases Provencal paintings from the 18th to the early 20th centuries, including paintings by the Avignon-born artist, Joseph Vernet. There are tapestries, period furniture, porcelain, and clocks on display, and once you have explored the museum, take a stroll in the beautiful garden.
A two-minute walk takes you to Musee Calvet, founded 200 years ago. It houses the art and library collection of an Avignon-born doctor and art collector, Esprit Calvet who donated his collection to the city. It has since been expanded with additions of fine art, archaeological finds, and decorative art. The Egyptology department is particularly impressive so don’t miss it. You will see a collection of sarcophagi, canopic jars, and an offering table. The great thing is that it’s free to enter this museum.
A short walk takes you to Musee Requien, Avignon’s natural history museum, which will delight young and old. It houses around 400,000 botanic samples, 416,150 geology samples, and a large collection of taxidermy and skeletons. It is another free museum.
A three-minute walk away is one of the newer museums in the city, founded in 2000. It showcases contemporary artwork, such as paintings, photographs, videos, and sculptures from the 1980s onwards, including works by Anselm Keifer and Cy Twombly. The museum was founded by art dealer, Yvon Lambert, who donated many of his works to the city. In 2009, he donated another 560 pieces of art to the museum. The museum is housed in two 18th-century hotels. The permanent collection is in the Hotel de Caumont while temporary exhibitions are held in the Hotel de Montfaucon.
By this time, you will be ready for lunch and there is a restaurant La Violette in the museum, in Hotel de Caumont. It presents creative fusion dishes. Starters include gyoza soup with vegetables, red curry, and coconut milk, while mains include mushroom risotto with scallops. Desserts are plentiful and include vanilla mille feuille and Mont Blanc. All the dishes are homemade.
Just three minutes away is Musee Lapidaire dedicated to ancient civilisations, including Etruscan, Greek, Roman, and Gallic. Even before you go in, you will be stunned by the building in which the artefacts and sculptures are showcased. It is a former Jesuit temple designed in the Baroque style which has a portico and apse painted with frescoes dating to the 12th century. There are vases, masks, glassware, earthenware, and lamps from different periods in the museum, as well as statues, sarcophagi, and tombs. Go into the chapels and see the Gallo-Roman sculptures, altars, and funerary items. The museum is free to enter and as well as viewing the permanent exhibition, make sure that you check out the temporary ones.
A two-minute walk takes you to a completely different museum to the last one. The Musee Angladon is an art museum housing the art collection of Jacques Doucet, a pioneer of fashion design in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. His heirs founded the museum in an 18th-century mansion and many of Angladon’s paintings, sculptures, and collection of 18th-century furniture are showcased here. You will see some amazing artwork here, including paintings by Manet, Picasso, Degas, Sisley, and Cezanne. There is even a painting by Van Gogh, though many of his paintings are in an museum in Amsterdam.
Before you finish your tour of Avignon, you should pay a visit to Rue des Teinturiers, a cobblestoned street that follows the Vaucluse canal. From the 14th until the 19th centuries, this street was the heart of the silk spinning and dying industry. You will see four water wheels left out of the 28 used at that time. Take a stroll along the canal. Some ancient plane trees will give you shade and on the other side, you will be able to see beautiful old stone houses. One of the oldest mansions in Avignon can be found along this street, no 14, which belonged to Jean-Henri Fabre, a 19th-century entomologist. The street is usually quiet except in July when the Festival of Avignon is held and there are street artists and open-air theatre performances every day.
You can now relax and decide whether to stay the night in Avignon or drive to Arles for the night ready for your tour tomorrow. It is only about a 45-minute drive so choose whatever suits you best.
Start your tour of Arles at its biggest attraction, the Roman amphitheatre. It was one of the biggest sources of entertainment in Roman times and was used for around 400 years to entertain the citizens with chariot races and gladiatorial contests. Modelled on the Coliseum in Rome, it was built about 20 years later in 90 AD and held 20,000 spectators. Notice the stairways placed at equal distances, allowing the easy flow of the spectators. It is still used to this day, holding bullfights and concerts.
A six-minute walk takes you to another vestige of the Roman occupation of France, the Roman Theatre of Arles. It was built over 2,000 years ago and is still used for performances. In its heyday, it seated around 10,000 spectators but now only the lower tiers exist. There are two columns behind the stage called ‘The Two Widows’ which would have been part of the backdrop. The backdrop also included a statue of Emperor Augustus which reached a massive three metres. There is a model of what the theatre would have looked like in Roman times in the Arles Museum.
Within two minutes you will be at this impressive square, home to the Town Hall and the two churches of Saint Trophime and Sainte Anne, which are opposite each other. In the middle of the square is a massive Roman obelisk measuring 15 metres high and made of granite. It was discovered in the 14th century and was erected on a plinth in the square in the 1800s. It originally stood in the Roman theatre.
This church is beautiful and well deserves to be part of the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Close to the west portal is a set of Romanesque sculptures from the early 12th century. They portray biblical scenes such as the Apocalypse. On the tympanum, you will see Christ sitting above the apostles and beneath 40 angels. The inside is just as impressive. There are Baroque paintings on the walls as well as nine tapestries from the 17th century, 13th-century plaques and epitaphs, as well as early Christian sarcophagi.
While you are here, take the time to visit the cloister which was built at the same time as the church and was used by the canons who lived away from everyday life. The northern and eastern galleries are the most impressive as each pillar tells a different biblical story such as Saint Stephen being stoned and Moses meeting God.
A minute away from the square is the Cryptoporticus, a network of tunnels underneath what was the Roman forum. It was, however, created by the Greeks before the Roman occupation. It is unsure what they were used for. Tunnels in ancient times were often used as granaries but it is too damp in Arles to make this viable. They could have been used to house slaves or to support monuments above. Be prepared for it to be damp and cold when you visit but it is still an exciting experience.
By this time, you will be ready for lunch and there are a few restaurants on the way to your first afternoon stop including L’Apostrophe and El Paseo.
Four minutes from the Cryptoporticus is the Fondation Vincent Van Gogh where you can learn about the life of this renowned painter, and particularly his life in Arles. There are some of his paintings on show, including a self-portrait and there are temporary exhibitions of his work from other galleries. The foundation also houses contemporary works by artists who have been influenced by Van Gogh’s work.
A two-minute walk takes you to the Thermae of Constantine. The Emperor Constantine lived in the 4th century AD and these baths were built at that time. They were excavated in the 19th century and, compared to many Roman baths in France, these are amongst the best preserved. You will be able to see the caldarium and the way it was heated, the tepidarium, which was the warm bath, and the laconicum, the steam bath.
The last stop of your tour is the Musee Reattu, the main art museum in Arle which is housed in a former monastery. Jacques Reattu, a French painter of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, bequeathed many of his drawings and paintings to the museum in his will which led to the museum being named after him. You will be able to see more than 800 of his paintings in the museum as well as paintings and drawings by Pablo Picasso. The museum also showcases a large photography collection which includes fashion photos taken by the American photographer, Richard Avedon.
Saint Rémy De Provence is 21.2 km south of Avignon and is a lovely small town surrounded by olive groves and vineyards. It is in a beautiful setting at the foot of the Alpilles Mountains where there are hiking and biking trails.
The town is famous for being the birthplace of Nostradamus, the famous astrologer and physician. It was also where Vincent Van Gogh spent a year receiving medical care at the Saint Paul Monastery. There he painted many of his best works such as ‘Starry Night’. His room has been kept as it was when he stayed here. Visit the monastery and take one of the organized walks around town to the places where Van Gogh painted.
Saint Rémy De Provence has its roots in Ancient Rome and at the southern entrance to the town are the remains of the Roman city, Glanum. Next to it is a Roman mausoleum and an impressive triumphal arch, the oldest in the country.
Provence is famous for its outdoor markets and Rémy has a fantastic market on Wednesday mornings. It covers a massive area including the town centre, side streets, and the ring road circling the old part of town. You can buy fresh fruit and vegetables, local gourmet foods, lavender products such as soap and perfume, and brightly-coloured fabrics.
A little way out of town is the Carrieres de Lumières, an impressive sound and light show. Hundreds of images of paintings by famous artists, such as Cezanne and Van Gogh, are projected onto the 30-foot-high walls and onto the floors. The show is accompanied by music.
Also, just outside town is the winery, Chateau Romanin, a 250-hectare estate, with 58 hectares of vines. It produces red, rose, and white wines and has a lovely tasting room. The design of the winery is based on the original chateau of the same name, the ruins of which can be visited close by.
Saint Rémy De Provence has many festivals throughout the year. One of the most famous is Transhumance, held in May to celebrate the sheep being taken to higher pastures. There is a parade around the ring road with thousands of sheep, shepherds, and herding dogs taking part.
The next month brings the festival of Saint Eloi. He is the patron saint of horses and there is a parade with a statue of the saint taken around town, followed by musicians, decorated horses, and traditionally dressed citizens.
Avignon has a rich collection of restaurants, so whether you’re looking for a Michelin-starred restaurant to celebrate a special event or a cosy, relaxed eatery, you won’t be disappointed.
In Arles, there are restaurants serving traditional Provencal dishes and others that serve Mediterranean cuisine so there is an array of choices.
The best weather is from June until August when it is warm to hot and dry but it does get crowded and hotels are more expensive. March to May and October and November have pleasant weather and are less crowded but October is wet. December to February is colder with temperatures between 9C and 15C but many attractions are still open and not crowded.