The expansive region of Liguria stretches from the French border to the edge of Tuscany. Its eastern half, known as the Italian Riviera, includes Portofino, the Cinque Terre, and La Spezia. You can base yourself in the timeless villages of Portofino or Santa Margherita while exploring the gravity-defying villages perched on mountains above the sparkling Mediterranean Sea. To make the most of your time on this postcard-perfect coast, you can follow our daily itinerary.
We offer hiking recommendations for exploring the remote and charming Cinque Terre. These villages, known as the "five lands," include Corniglia, Vernazza, Manarola, Riomaggiore, and Monterosso al Mare. Each village has its own unique atmosphere and character, providing a diverse and spectacular experience. The natural seclusion of the Cinque Terre makes it an ideal and laid-back alternative to the more glamorous Riviera towns.
When visiting the Italian Riviera, dining is an essential part of the experience! Be sure to savour local specialities such as Genoese pesto, giant red shrimp, and the famous focaccia di Recco. While Portofino and other coastal towns offer many exceptional restaurants, hidden culinary gems can be found away from the touristy waterfront areas or up in the hills.
A key piece of advice is to avoid travelling by car during peak season, as parking in the Cinque Terre can be extremely challenging. The train serves all the recommended towns, and the bus and ferry also offer regular service between the villages. Whether travelling by car or train, following our itinerary through the Italian Riviera will allow you to experience la dolce vita.
The chic seaside retreat is located at the point of a tranquil peninsula surrounded by green hills. Portofino's picturesque harbour is filled with colorful fishing boats alongside mega yachts, adding to the glamorous charm of the town. The little piazzetta is perfect for sipping a spritz and people-watching; you might even spot a movie star. Narrow streets with lemon-yellow buildings wind into the hillside, offering posh shopping and unexpected views. Every corner of Portofino is a dream. The best way to see the town is to unwind and explore with our walking tour.
Portofino’s main square, at the edge of the bustling harbour, is lined with sun-washed pastel buildings filled with upscale restaurants, luxury shops, and high-end hotels. Walk along the harbour to revel in the scenic views of the bay.
From here you can see the 12th-century Church of St. Martin. Like everything in Portofino, its striped façade glows yellow, while its interior features lavish marble and stained glass.
Museo del Parco is an open-air museum with gardens full of contemporary sculpture and scenic views of the port.
A short walk up the hill to Castello Brown provides a panoramic view from the gardens when it is not hosting private events. The hulking Genoese-built fortress warded off Venetians and Austrians for centuries but eventually succumbed to Napoleon. In 1867, it was transformed into a private mansion with a neo-Gothic interior.
For even more incredible views, hike a little further down the peninsula to the working lighthouse, Faro di Portofino. Take a quick look at the bright yellow Church of San Giorgio across from the castle for another coastal perspective. Not far from the castle and church is a dramatic lighthouse perched at the land’s end. Your efforts will be rewarded with magnificent views and cocktails or gelato at the lighthouse café.
Trek the other direction above the town into Portofino Regional Park, a protected nature preserve where 80 km of hiking trails crisscross the peninsula, linking Portofino with Santa Margherita Ligure and Camogli. A small fee is charged to enter the park to help maintain its scenery and trails.
For a mix of relaxation, culture, and seaside fun, consider stepping away from glamorous Portofino and visiting the low-key vibe of coastal Camogli or heading for the hills to Recco. Camogli is a charming, unspoiled village which means “house of wives,” named for the women who held down the fort while their husbands were at sea. Vertical houses staggered down the hillside are painted in sunny shades of apricot and amber rim the enchanting cove. Nothing beats an aperitivo or dinner next to the water while the evening sun sinks into the sea. A beach day in Camogli combined with a trip to Recco makes for a sun-kissed, food-filled, relaxing day.
A short walk around town and you will quickly notice Camogli’s green shuttered windows. Some of them are real and others “trick the eye.” Trompe l’oeil facades came into fashion when taxes were based on the number of windows one had. Clever villagers closed the windows and painted them on instead. Over time, the trompe l’oeil became artworks and contributes to charm of Camogli.
Get a glimpse into the lives of local fishermen and their thriving industry. The Marine Museum has a few interesting exhibits including fun boats in a bottle, a reproduction of a Camogli house and its port, maritime paraphernalia, and a German torpedo from The Great War.
At the end of Camogli beach along the sea wall, the yellow Church of Santa Maria Assunta completes the postcard-perfect picture of the village. Dating to the 12th century, it features lovely frescos and a Renaissance altarpiece.
Further up the hillside, the Chiesa di San Nicolò di Capodimonte sits in peaceful isolation, surrounded by olive groves and overlooking the sea. Also dating back to the 12th century, this Romanesque church dedicated to the patron saint of sailors offers a quiet retreat and one of the most scenic viewpoints along the coast.
The former fishing village of Santa Margherita Ligure, known by locals as “Santa,” is the more laid-back neighbour of chic Portofino. Buildings are painted in sun-washed, punchbowl colours that dazzle when reflected in the calm harbour. If you stay here, take a scenic stroll on the trails south to Portofino or to buzzy Rapallo to the north, both of which take about an hour. Santa Margherita might be on the most famous stretch of the Italian Riviera, but it has slightly fewer crowds, brims with culture, and is unique for the area as it is flatter with sandy stretches of beach.
Points of interest are the Castello di Santa Margherita Ligure which protected the village from Saracen raids through the centuries. There are plenty of churches to escape the bustling city life and busy beach clubs. Seek shade and tranquility in the peaceful interiors of Santa Margherita’s many churches. Visit the Baroque church of San Giacomo di Corte for its gilded interior. The tall, pastel church of the fisherman, Oratorio di Sant ‘Erasmo, was built in 1347 and houses a neat collection of model ships.
A walk along Salita San Giacomo leads to Santa Margherita’s top attraction, Villa Durazzo, built in 1678 as the summer home of the namesake family. Cobblestone pathways wind through the sprawling manicured gardens. The magnificent apartments and parlours are full of period decorative arts and gorgeous frescoes. The villa is open year-round.
Take a break from the heat by walking along the shady palm-lined promenade and admiring the traditional fishing boats (gozze) moored in the harbour, then go for a swim. Santa Margherita’s central beach is sandy and spacious but is still very crowded in peak season. Consider getting a sun lounger at the beach club located south of Central Bagni, where you'll find a mix of public and private beaches, most with food and facilities. The pebbly Giò e Rino Beach is arguably the best for swimming as the water is calm and crystal clear.
Follow your nose to the daily fish market on via Marconi or wander the backstreets, admiring the colourful-shuttered, lemon-coloured buildings hidden behind blooming umbrellas shading diners at cafe tables. If you’re visiting on a Friday, don’t miss the Corso Matteotti— one of Italy’s best markets selling everything from leather to sun-dried tomatoes.
Santa Margherita is known culinarily, above all else, for its sizable, succulent red shrimp. With Genoa nearby, you’ll also find Genovese cuisine well-represented. Look for dishes such as pesto trofie pasta, ravioli with meaty ragu, and fabulous focaccia. You will find several good aperitivo spots near the Piazza Martiri Della Liberta.
A string of five fishing villages cling to craggy cliffs tucked into the folds of the mountains. Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore are linked by 12 km (7.5 miles) of former donkey trails-turn-hiking paths weaved into hills crinkled with terraced vineyards, olive groves, and crashing waves.
Frequent train service runs between all five villages, linking them to Genoa and La Spezia. Rather than driving, buy an unlimited train ticket to visit all the villages in a day or two. Monterosso al Mare is the only one that is easily accessible by car. It is more touristy than the others but has hotels and restaurants at varying price points. Monterosso’s Fegina Beach is considered one of the prettiest in the region with its traditional sandy beach and spurs of rocks rising from the sea.
San Giovanni Battista is one the oldest churches in Cinque Terre, dating to 1307. The signature white and dark green marble facade carries through to the church's interior. Of note is the large, lacy rose window and Gothic fresco of John the Baptist painted above the entrance. Inside, the triptych depicting the Virgin and Child is attributed to the school of Giotto.
Across from the church of St. John, is the Baroque Oratory of Death and Prayers. The modest chapel is intricately carved with skulls and skeletons as a reminder of the transience of life. The church’s brotherhood of the Black (robed) Monks served an important role in the 16th and 17th centuries, burying and memorializing the less well-off like orphans, widows, and sailors lost at sea.
Constructed in 1618, the Convent sits high on the promontory overlooking Monterosso Bay, visible throughout the Cinque Terre. The convent’s small Church of St. Francis has a surprisingly nice collection of artworks, including a Crucifixion by Flemish painter Anthony Van Dyck.
Located at the foot of the San Cristoforo hill, just below the Convent of the Capuchin Friars, the Aurora Tower (Dawn Tower) divides the town into new and old sections. The original Tower, built around AD 1000, kept watch over the coast and fended off pirate incursions as part of a larger defensive system built in the sixteenth. Today it is a bar and restaurant.
Il Gigante, a monumental sculpture of Neptune lumbers under the weight of a garden terrace. Il Gigante was built from concrete in 1910 but lost his arms and seashell garden in WWII bombing. You can’t miss this chiselled art deco god at the west end of Monterosso’s beach.
The fairytale village sits on a jagged strip of coastline crowned with a medieval tower. Vernazza is traffic-free and is the only Cinque Terre town with a natural harbour. The old castle has guarded Vernazza since Saracens and pirates terrorized the sea. Climb the steep tower stairs for a bird’s eye view of the coast. The village has great access to trailheads with fabulous scenic overlooks. Brave types can seek out local guides to go cliff-jumping near Vernazza.
The small, photogenic beach near Vernazza’s harbour is perfect for throwing down a towel or taking a dip in the calm, clear water. Stake your claim on one of the sunning rocks or enjoy an aperitif at one of the cafés and bustling restaurants around the port.
The Gothic church, built in the early 14th century to house the relics of St. Maragaret, stands proudly on the rocky outcrop. The sombre baroque exterior leads into a rustic interior with exposed stonework, a wood beam ceiling, and a few baroque sculptures.
Well-worn staircases ascend through a honeycomb of streets and interior passages to pop out at the top of the town near the tower.
Vernazza’s imposing fortress was built in the 11th century and later additions were made over many centuries. The round tower is nicknamed Belforte, or “place of screams”, as lookouts would shout when invaders were approaching. Now tourists climb to the lookout to marvel at the beautiful views still safeguarded by the castle.
Vernazza beaches are small, and people are usually found draped over boulders tumbling toward the sea but work your way through an arched cave at the edge of town to find a wild and wonderfully rocky swimming beach.
Unlike the other four coastal towns, Corniglia is perched high above the shore with a stretch of pebbly beach below. The road from Corniglia to Manarola is considered the Cinque Terre Wine Trail. It is easiest to stay in Manarola or Riomaggiore and visit the other towns by foot or ferry.
Manarola is a most striking village, colourfully clinging to a rocky spit of land jutting into the sea and hugged by rugged vineyards. The best thing to do in Manarola is to wander around discovering romantic nooks and sampling the local Sciacchetrà wine. As a busy working fishing village, the restaurants are supplied with daily fresh seafood.
Spend some at the marina. The harbour is filled with colourful fishing boats in the morning and transitions into the village’s central sunbathing and swimming spot after the fishermen return. It’s the perfect place to spend a day tanning, people-watching, swimming, and jumping off the rocks. The two main avenues in Manarola are via Renato Birolli and via Antonio Discovolo, which run from the cliffs to the sea. Here is where you can find most of the restaurants, shops, and cafes.
The gothic stone church, built in 1338, was given a baroque facelift and like many of the Cinque Terre churches, has a simple façade with a Carrara marble rose window above the entrance. The interior has some interesting architectural sculptures, ceiling paintings, and a 14th-century triptych depicting the Madonna with Child.
The Walk of Love is a 20-minute trail between Manarola and Riomaggiore. Since the 16th century, this part of the Italian Riviera has been dubbed the “floral shop of Italy” as colourful flowers and gardens blanket the surrounding hills. The Cinque Terre card is required to walk these paths.
When the sun goes down, the people come out to its famous hilltop viewpoint. Punta Bonfiglio Viewpoint might be one of the best vistas in the Cinque Terre. This is by no means a secret location and can be crowded as sunset nears. The magical changing hues of the buildings in the setting sun is worth the effort.
The village of Corniglia was known in Roman times for its fine wine. In fact, “Cornelia” was engraved on wine jugs found in Pompeii. Because the town has no port, locals relied more on farming than fishing. The vineyards, grown on terraces around the town, specialize in the white wine Vernaccia di Corniglia.
Corniglia is the smallest of the Cinque Terre and is probably the most challenging to get to. A visit here feels a little more authentic than the other more touristy villages. It is quieter, less expensive and has the most staggering views. There are quite a few places worth visiting even for Corniglia’s small size.
Make the semi-challenging climb up 370 steps of the red brick staircase connecting the train station and the beach to the village. You will be rewarded with spectacular views of the crystal-clear water, coves, and beaches. If you can’t make the trek by foot, hop on the bus that will deliver you to the top.
The Baroque church sits in the main square of Corniglia, built in 1334, and is dedicated to the patron saint of Corniglia, San Pietro. Like other churches in the area, the Carrara marble rose window sits above the entrance, and the interior has a Gothic baptismal font, large oil paintings, and a polychromed altar.
This panoramic point is a little easier to reach by foot than La Lardarina. Follow via Fieschi for wonderful views of the sea and peeks of the neighbouring villages.
Head to the charming little Piazzetta Largo Taragio to visit the 18th-century oratory that was once a monastic chapel but now hosts contemporary art exhibitions. Behind the severe gabled façade is a bright whitewashed interior with a spectacularly frescoed ceiling painted to look like the Mediterranean sky.
The crystal-clear waters around Corniglia are a bit more secluded and harder to get to than some of the other towns, but a million shades of sparkling blue water make the trek up and down loads of steps well worth it. It might be easier to explore this part of the coast by hiring a boat and anchoring off one of the coves.
Riomaggiore, the southernmost village of the Cinque Terre is a two-minute train ride from Manarola. The brightly coloured stone houses are wedged into the hillside between cliffs overlooking the sea. Stroll along the main street via Colombo down to the picturesque little marina framed with lovely pastel houses and dotted with brightly coloured fishing boats. The pebbly beach and rocky hillside near the boat dock are one of the best spots to watch the sunset in the Cinque Terre. Riomaggiore also has more nightlife than the other villages, with many restaurants and bars staying open late.
Tucked against the hillside at the top of town, the striking Church of St. John the Baptist was built in 1340 and then renovated in the neo-Gothic style during the late 19th century. Points of interest inside are a wooden crucifix by Anton Maragliano and a triptych depicting the Madonna and Child.
The Castle of Riomaggiore, built in the 13th century, was part of the defensive system encircling the town. Locally known as Castellazzo of Cerrico, the substantial remains of the curtain wall and two squat round towers offer more spectacular views of the sea. The castle can be reached by following the road leading from the train station.
The beaches in the Italian Riviera are not the usual sandy resort beaches de rigueur but rather they range from fully equipped beach clubs to free public spiaggias, which can be quite crowded during peak season. The beaches in this region are pebbly and particularly rocky in some areas. Invest in a good pair of water shoes and treat yourself to a lounger at one of the many private clubs. The villages of the Cinque Terre are small and so are the swimming areas, many of which share the harbour with boats.
Trekking cards are required for some stretches between the villages. They can be purchased at the National Park Info Point in Riomaggiore or in the other Cinque Terre train stations.
From the east end of Levanto’s promenade, take the stairs to the castle. Most of the path is an old donkey trail leading through lush Mediterranean vegetation. Follow the trail past the ruins of the Chapel of St. Antonio and an old lighthouse. During your walk, you will get breathtaking views over Levanto and all five Cinque Terre villages. Prepare to climb a lot of stairs down to Monterosso. This is a popular path for birding and hiking, so it can be a busy trail from April through October.
Starting in Monterosso, the trail begins with a rigorous staircase and great views over Vernazza, but the trail is easier if you walk from Vernazza toward Monterosso. Parts of the path are wide and peaceful with brilliant vistas over the sea. The footpath passes through varied mountain vegetation past an ancient stone-bridge making for a great photo op.
Take this path in either direction, but it is easier to begin in Corniglia. Save time by taking the bus from the train station up to Corniglia’s centre to reach the trailhead. The ride is included with a Cinque Terre Card. There is well-marked signage to Vernazza on a relatively flat trail with breathtaking views descending into Vernazza. Make a rest stop halfway in the village of Prevo where "Il Gabbiano" bar offers fantastic sea views and delicious lemon granitas.
The Cinque Terre Card is not required for this part of the trail. The hike can be done in either direction but again, it is easier to start in Corniglia. The hiking trail begins with a very steep climb up steps. To avoid the stairs, start in Manarola by taking the shuttle bus directly to Volastra where the trail starts behind the church of Madonna della Salute. This becomes the most beautiful part of the walk leading through ancient terraces of vineyards and olive groves, down to the sea. The vineyard section of this hike is moderately easy with wonderful views of the sea and villages.
The Via dell'Amore is the most popular stretch of path in the Cinque Terre. The paved trails winds along the coast with parts overhanging the sea. The path requires the Cinque Terre Pass. An alternate, but more difficult route from Manarola to Riomaggiore follows the trail "via Beccara".
This alternate trail between Manarola and Riomaggiore does not require a Cinque Terre Card, but it does require good physical condition. The villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola are close to one another, but a very steep mountain terrain separates them. Half an hour challenging climb due to the number of steep stairs up over the ridge, through a metal gate as you pass across the high point then drop through terraced small-plot grape fields into a beautiful town for refreshments. The trail offers the absolute best panoramic sea views.
This is a beautiful but challenging 8 km hike with great views over the Gulf of Genoa. Toward the end of the trail, you will encounter switchbacks and elevation gains requiring some scrambling along on rocky terrain and descents requiring the use of chain handrails. The challenging course is absolutely rewarding.
Traveling with small children through the Cinque Terre may be challenging given the steep stairs and challenging hiking trails. Read through our suggestions for hiking between the villages to determine which difficulty level might be best. There are plenty of trails appropriate for older children.
For family-friendly lodging try Agriturismo Buranco near Monterosso. The working farm is set within a vineyard, has a reputable restaurant that does wine tastings (perfect for the grown-ups) and a kid-friendly beach within walking distance. Some rooms and apartments can sleep up to 6.
Genoa is a 30 to 60-minute train ride from most of the villages in the Italian Riviera and makes for a full fun daytrip with the kids. The Aquarium of Genoa is the largest in Europe. Located in the Old Harbour area of Genoa the huge aquarium has an underwater tunnel, various ecosystems simulating world seas and coral reefs, and up close experiences with penguins and dolphins. Climb-aboard the Vascello Neptune Floating, a replica of a 17th-century Spanish galleon, built for the 1985 film Pirates docked in Genoa’s main port near the aquarium.
The Cinque Terre dry white wines are organic and produced with the native Bosco grape, sometimes combined with Albarola and Vermentino. Locals are particularly fond of the Sciacchetrà sweet dessert wine made from grapes grown near the sea. The floral Cinque Terre wine pairs well with a plate of grilled fish and tomatoes.
There are numerous enotecas - or wine bars - across the five villages, but if in Vernazza try Enoteca Sciacchetrà, a delightful little wine shop on the main street. Also in Vernazza is Cinque Sensi is owned by a local who got his mixologist license in the States. It is a beautiful bar that serves excellent wine tastings and a variety of food.
Cinque Terre might be famed for its scenic hikes along vineyard-laced terraces, but the region has a long culinary tradition with food from land and sea. You cannot visit the Italian Riviera without trying regional dishes like Ligurian basil pesto and anchovies in every form, freshly cooked in olive oil, spiced with peppers, or fried.
Focaccia is to Liguria what bruschetta is to Tuscany with regional variations of toppings. Try the Camogli version with onion, sage, and cheese, or San Fruttuoso style focaccia loaded with anchovies, tomatoes, and olives.
Camogliesi, pastries filled with rum or Amaretto cream are popular in Revello, while fruit and spice-laced bread, pandolce, is found year-round throughout the Riviera.
The Italian Riviera has a reliable 300 days of sunshine a year, with mild sea breezes helping to keep the temperatures tolerable. Like other Mediterranean towns, the high season is from May to September. The best months to visit are April, May, and September. October can be super windy and November rainy.