The ancient Medieval city of Winchester is steeped in history, once the royal capital of England, and connected to legends of long ago. From this place, King Arthur and his Round Table convened in the Great Hall and King Alfred the Great began uniting the counties of Anglo-Saxon England. Today, it is one of the country's best-preserved Medieval towns, Hampshire's foodie capital, and the stage for too many arts and music festivals to count.
Start your trip at the top of Winchester High Street by visiting the Westgate Museum in a Grade I listed monument. Built in the 12th century, the museum is housed in one of only two surviving Medieval gateways to the city. With a grand stone entrance, heavy wooden doors, guard posts, arrow windows, and portcullis gates, it defended Winchester from invaders and served as a tax booth. When the threat of invasion declined, the gatehouse was a debtor's prison for 150 years. Today, a popular museum inside explains its history over the centuries. There is also a fine-painted ceiling, Tudor costumes to try on, and stunning city vistas from the rooftop.
Opposite Westgate Museum is the famous Great Hall, built in the 13th century. It is the last remains of the grand Winchester Castle, commissioned by William the Conqueror in 1067 and the seat of the British government for over a century. Today the castle is now reduced to rubble but the Hall is something special. Step inside the imposing Great Hall, which really does live up to its name, to experience one of the most impressive Medieval halls preserved in time. According to legend, it was a meeting place for King Arthur's Round Table. Marvel at the Round Table hanging at one end, vivid stained glass windows depicting coats of arms, a beautiful high vaulted timber ceiling, the intricate steel marriage gates dedicated to Princess Diana and Prince Charles, and a bronze statue of Queen Victoria. Stroll the connecting Long Gallery with interesting displays, historical information, and paintings.
Just outside the Great Hall is Queen Eleanor's Garden. Walk along the stone paths that skirt flower and herb borders, bay hedges, and turf walls to reach a Purbeck stone fountain, vine arch, and hazel pergola. This quaint garden is a modern recreation of a 13th-century Medieval herbarium, featuring plants and materials that would have been used in gardens of the period. It is named after Queen Eleanor of Provence, the wife of King Henry III, who is said to have been fond of growing herbs for medicine.
Across the way from the Great Hall are the Peninsula Barracks. A military base to house troops until the 1960s, the Barracks were built on the site of King's House, a 17th-century palace designed by Christopher Wren for King Charles II. In 1894, the original palace was gutted by a fire. Today, the Barracks have been renovated into six military museums including The Gurkha Museum, The Royal Green Jackets Museum, The Adjutant General's Corps Museum, and Horsepower (The Museum of the King's Royal Hussars).
Walk past the Great Hall towards the centre of Winchester to find the City Museum. The museum is one of the oldest museums in the UK, constructed in 1903. Inside, three galleries tell the story of Winchester from its Roman and Saxon roots to its status as Alfred the Great's seat. Make sure to see the Victorian model of Winchester, created when the city was only a third of what it is now.
Discover over 1,000 years of history at Winchester Cathedral, the longest cathedral, and one of the largest in Europe. Originally a Saxon church, the cathedral was constructed in the 11th century with Norman and Gothic architecture. Learn about the legend and cult of Saint Swithun, whose bones were said to heal the sick, and sought after by droves of pilgrims. The crypt often floods, transforming into an eerie lake with a part-submerged life-size sculpture of a solitary man. Guided tours are highly recommended, which allow you to climb the tower's spiral staircase to the cathedral rooftop and explore the crypt below.
Further down from the cathedral, you will find the impressive Winchester Guildhall with its Gothic architecture. Originally, the Guildhall was built in 1873 to serve as a multi-purpose space to house the police department, jails, the fire brigade, a library, courts, a museum, a public exhibition hall, offices, and meeting rooms. The building facade depicts both legends and real history of Winchester including King Arthur, William the Conqueror, King Alfred the Great, and Florence de Lunne. Despite the museum, library, police station, and fire brigade all leaving the Guildhall for larger venues, the Victorian building has stood fast with numerous renovations. Today, there is a popular cafe, conference and functions rooms, and a tourist information centre - all showcasing original Victorian features.
Continue along Broadway to reach the statue of legendary King Alfred the Great. It was constructed in 1899 to commemorate the millennium of King Alfred's death in 899 AD. He is shown with a sword in his right hand and a scroll in his left. This signifies his accomplishments for the country - he began uniting the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms that later created England, defended the country from Viking invasions, and promoted literacy and education.
Opposite the statue of King Alfred the Great are the Abbey Gardens. Walk around the beautiful rose beds, a scented garden, and children's play area. Once the site of King Alfred's Nunnaminster from 903 AD, the monastery was destroyed in 1539 by King Henry VIII. In 1751, a Georgian house and a Doric-style temple were built on the site, which still stands today. Abbey House is now the official residence of the Winchester mayor, although interestingly, the mayor doesn't live in the property, but uses it for entertaining guests.
Head to the Brooks Shopping Centre to time travel through history. Visiting the 878 AD attraction sets the stage for uncovering the importance of Winchester during the Anglo-Saxon period. Developed by Ubisoft and the makers of Assassins Creed, 878 AD is an immersive experience that takes you back to when Winchester was Wessex's important royal and religious capital in one of the most powerful Anglo-Saxon kingdoms. There are live performances by skilled actors telling tales and replicating events from a time of Vikingthreat. Take a look at ancient artefacts, interactive displays, and captivating audio-visuals. There is also an augmented reality app to download and follow as you tour Winchester.
Walk along the High Street and then Broadway to reach the Winchester City Mill, which sits on the bank of the Itchen River. It is one of the oldest mills in the UK with ancient roots as a Roman and Saxon mill. The original mill became derelict but was rebuilt in 1743 around the 14th and 15th-century structural timbers, which is how you see the mill today. The National Trust took the watermill after WWI to bring it back to its former glory and eventually to function in flour production. Learn about the mill, spot river otters, and visit the delicious cafe.
A short walk north along the river leads to the Winnall Moors Nature Reserve, 84 acres of protected wetlands full of wildlife, chalk streams, rare wildflower meadows, reedbeds, and pastures. There are trails to follow around the reserve and through the woodland. Birds such as reed warblers, chiffchaffs, herons, and kingfishers reside among the flora. Graceful, reddish-colour roe deer are often seen here, grazing in the undergrowth. Dark brown and round-bodied water voles can be spotted swimming in the waters or hurrying around the bushes. The site used to belong to Hyde Abbey during the medieval times with a chapel, which is no longer there. Learn about the reserve and its habitats in the visitor centre.
Walk back towards Winchester Mill and then east to climb up St Gile's Hill. At the top, you will be rewarded with majestic panoramic views over the city including Winchester Cathedral and the Abbey. St Giles Church, a medieval chapel, once stood proudly atop the hill, which has long since been demolished. Historically, the Romans and Anglo-Saxons have used this hill as burial grounds.
Start the afternoon with a tranquil stroll along Keats' Walk that takes you from the city centre and south along the River Itchen. The Walk is named after John Keats, a romantic poet who stayed in Winchester in 1819 and was influenced by the area's natural beauty. He is said to have taken this daily walk, from the Cathedral, past the ruins of Wolvesey Castle, and ending at the water meadows at St Cross Church. It is one mile long and takes around half an hour to walk one way.
The finishing point of Keats' Walk is St Cross Church and the Hospital of St Cross, south of the city centre. The Grade I-listed hospital site includes a Norman church and a medieval almshouse founded in 1132 by Henry of Blois, the grandson of William the Conqueror. Its establishment was to provide shelter, food, and care for poor and needy men. Unlike a monastery, the hospital is a Christian charity foundation run by the Brothers of St Cross, not monks. It is the oldest almshouse still used in England and provides accommodation, a barber, and lunch for elderly men. The original 12th-century hospital no longer exists but was replaced by an almshouse in the 17th century with a charming design.
Prebook a guided tour with one of the resident Brothers in his traditional attire. The tour will take you around the 12th and 13th-century church, the 14th-century Brethren's Hall and the Minstrel's Gallery, the Tudor ambulatory, and the Georgian kitchen and bread room. Hear about the Hospital's medieval history, legends, and tales.
The Hundred Men's Hall tea room serves a splendid array of refreshments including morning coffee and afternoon tea. There is also the carefully maintained Master's Garden, Compton Garden, and bowling green, which feature spectacular flowers, a lily pond, medieval herbs, rosebeds, and hedgerows. The Porter's Lodge Gift Shop offers handmade pottery and wares emblazoned with the hospital cross emblem.
The church is marvelled for its late Norman architecture and stonework. The high-vaulted ceilings, one-metre-thick stone walls, intricately carved wooden pews, and 20th-century stained glass windows are especially intriguing. Every Thursday a lunchtime "Perfect Pitch" concert is held in the church with a performance by young music students from nearby music academies. Daily services are still held at the private chapel, which can be visited on Sunday services or as part of a pre-booked tour. You may also request to partake in the longstanding tradition of the "Wayfarer's Dole," a small horn of beer and a morsel of bread given to weary travellers. It is a testament to The Hospital of St Cross' foundation in charity and hospitality, dating back to the Middle Ages.
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